Wattage, fuel, noise, transfer switches, and the carbon monoxide rule that people break every storm season.
What's the difference between running watts and starting watts?
Running watts is what a generator supplies continuously; starting watts is the extra surge it can deliver for a few seconds while a motor spins up. Anything with a compressor or pump — fridge, A/C, well pump — briefly draws 2-4x its running wattage at startup, so you size for the surge, not just the steady load. Wattage sizing walkthrough
Can I run a generator in my garage or on the porch?
No — not with the door open, not 'just for a bit'. Generator exhaust carries enough carbon monoxide to kill in minutes, and CO deaths outnumber storm deaths after most hurricanes. Run it outdoors only, at least 20 feet from the house, exhaust pointed away from windows. Battery power stations are the only backup that's safe indoors. Generator safety guide
Do I need a transfer switch?
If you want the generator to power your house wiring (furnace, well pump, hardwired circuits) — yes, a transfer switch or interlock kit is the only safe and legal way. If you're happy running extension cords to individual appliances, you don't need one. What you must never do is plug a generator into a wall outlet. Why backfeeding kills
What size generator do I need for my house?
Essentials (fridge, lights, internet, phone charging) fit in 2,000-2,400 watts. Add a furnace blower, sump pump, or window A/C and you want 3,500-5,000. A well pump or small central A/C pushes you to 7,500+. Whole-home with central air is standby-generator territory at 18-26kW. Add up your real loads before buying. Size it properly
Are battery power stations worth it compared to a gas generator?
For short outages, apartments, and anyone who values silence and zero maintenance — genuinely yes. But energy density still favors gas by a mile: a $3,000 battery stores about as much usable electricity as one gallon of gasoline produces in a small generator. For multi-day outages you want an engine, or a battery plus a small generator to recharge it. Battery versus gas, in full
What fuel type is best — gasoline, propane, natural gas, or dual fuel?
Gasoline makes the most watts per engine size but goes stale in months and vanishes from stations before storms. Propane stores forever and burns cleaner, at ~10% less power. Natural gas means unlimited runtime but only for fixed standby units on a gas line. Dual-fuel portables that burn gasoline or propane are the most storm-proof choice for most people.
How loud are generators, really?
Open-frame portables run 70-80 dB — lawn-mower loud, hard on neighbors overnight. Inverter generators run 48-60 dB, about a normal conversation. Standby units land in the mid-60s behind a sound enclosure. Batteries are near-silent. Every 10 dB is roughly a doubling of perceived loudness, so the gap between 50 and 70 dB is enormous at 2 a.m.
Can't I just plug the generator into my dryer outlet with a double-male cord?
No — this is the one absolute in the category. A 'suicide cord' backfeeds your panel, energizes the utility line outside, and can electrocute the lineman repairing it; it also bypasses every breaker protecting the circuit and has two sets of live exposed prongs in your laundry room. The legal, safe versions of the same idea cost less than people expect: an interlock kit runs $50-150 plus an electrician visit, and it makes the whole panel safely generator-fed. Every storm season someone dies for the $200 this saves. The safety guide
How much gas should I store for a hurricane, and how do I keep it fresh?
A mid-size portable burns 8-15 gallons a day running flat out, so think 15-25 gallons stored for a real storm — run in shifts (mornings and evenings) and that covers most of a week. Ethanol gas goes stale in months; stabilizer extends it past a year, and rotating cans through your car's tank makes freshness automatic. The deeper fix is propane: it stores forever, and a dual-fuel generator turns the grill cylinders you already own into pre-staged outage fuel. The outage week playbook
My generator ran fine last year and won't start now — what's wrong?
Stale gas in the carburetor, almost certainly — it's the single most common failure in the category. The escalation: fresh fuel in the tank and float bowl, check the choke/fuel-valve/oil-sensor basics, carb cleaner through the intake, then a 30-minute carburetor clean (or a $20 replacement carb — nobody rebuilds small carbs anymore). Prevention is a monthly 10-minute run under load and stabilized or drained fuel before storage; propane units skip this failure mode entirely. The won't-start fix, in order
Will a power station really keep my fridge running overnight?
A modern fridge draws 40-60 watt-hours per hour once running, so a 1kWh station covers roughly 15-20 hours and a 2kWh unit rides out a full day-and-night — with the honest caveats: the compressor's starting surge rules out the smallest stations, door discipline matters, and an old garage fridge can double the math. A CPAP is easier still: 30-60 watts with humidification off means even a compact station handles the night. The pattern that wins outages is battery-for-the-quiet-loads, generator-for-the-heavy-lifting, recharging the battery during generator run windows. What a battery will and will not run
How much does a home standby generator cost installed?
Budget roughly double the sticker: a $6,000-$7,000 whole-home unit typically lands at $11,000-$16,000 installed once you add the transfer switch, concrete pad, gas line work, permits, and electrician. Smaller 10-14kW essential-circuit setups can come in around $8,000-$10,000. Get multiple quotes — post-storm pricing spikes are real. Which type do you need?